Our wine recommendations were selected guided by the following considerations:
- go with a broad range of food, since the Thanksgiving table is diverse
- are light+ to medium+ in weight, because we start drinking earlier and still want to be awake at 8:00
- all are independent, family-owned wineries
Predictably, we agree with Eric Asimov‘s assessment of a good Thanksgiving wine. He wrote that “wine is on the table to refresh, invigorate and delight. . . . What’s important is to select bottles that will be versatile with all sorts of food, that will offer such delicious bursts of energy that you can’t wait for another sip after the next bite.”
We’ve pulled several wines at the shop that we think fit the bill, some of which are described below.
Ovum, Old Love, Oregon, 2021: $18
Truly a blend– across grapes (Riesling, Muscat, Gewurstraminer, Albarino, and Pinot Blanc), across vineyards throughout Oregon, co-fermented, and across aging vessels (amphora, acacia barrel, cement egg and stainless steel) to age. The result–layers of flavor (pear, apricot, preserved lemon, floral, ginger, raisin) and a rich, silky texture.
Chalmers, Vermentino, Heathcote, 2021: $26
Good Vermentino is such a satisfying wine– fresh citrus (key lime, clementine), almonds and a beautifully fresh and slightly salty finish that evokes a sunny beach walk with a refreshing sea spray.
Angelo Negro, Serra Lupini, Roero Arneis, 2021: $18, organic
Though not new to those who follow our recommendations, it may have been a while since you’ve had this. It is still a stand-out, eliciting spontaneous comments of delight when we serve it. Pear and pineapple fruit, a pleasant nuttiness and a minerally finish remind us that the Negro Arneis earns a spot in our regular rotations.
Keuka Lake Vineyards, Vignoles, Finger Lakes, 2021: $20
An aromatic, full-bodied white that shows tropical fruit and floral notes, while offering a creamy, lush mouthfeel. We thought it qualified as a winter white, and would pair well with some of those caramelized root vegetables that begin making a regular appearance at our tables.
Glatzer, Blaufränkisch, Carnuntum, 2020: $19, organic
Our customer-friends have discovered Austrian reds, especially the indigenous varieties of Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt. This bottle will serve you well throughout the lengthy Thanksgiving celebration. Medium-bodied, with darker berry fruit that is nicely offset by a slight smokiness (maybe peat is closer) and a peppery, lifted finish. I don’t want to overthink this wine that drinks with such an easy-going familiarity. (Cheerful Walter and Doris Glatzer are pictured above.)
Scar of the Sea, Vino de los Ranchos, Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley, 2021: $26, organic
What a beguiling wine! There is just so much going on from the sweet, ripe fruit that characterizes Pinot Noir, more strawberry and raspberry here than cherry, beautifully complemented with earthier forest aromas of dried leaves and pine needles, wild flowers and a compelling minerality.
Petroni, Rouge, Vin de Corse, 2019: $18
Nielluccio (Sangiovese), Syrah and Grenache from Corsica
We tried the new vintage of the Petroni rouge Sunday evening with dinner. The 4 of us with it in our glasses all looked at each other and concurrently declared two-thumbs up. It went with everything on our plates and did exactly what Asimov described, it finished with a burst of energy that prepared our palates for the next bite.