New Arrivals
Argentina
Vida Organica Sparkling, 2006 ($12.99) Organic
Perhaps because I tried this for the first time when my two best friends were in town visiting, it tasted like something we should keep at home for impromptu celebrations. We all enjoyed the fresh apple and citrus aromas as well as the yeasty bread dough notes. All those bubbles made for a very lively mouthfeel, with the lemony citrus leaving us refreshed. Now that we have it in stock, this wine will be making many appearances in our household.
Austria
Hillinger, Pinot Grigio, 2006 ($9.99)
Austrians would call this wine "Grauburgunder," but we all know it as Pinot Grigio and, for their export market, they labeled it Pinot Grigio. Fermented in stainless steel and bottled thereafter, the wine is light to medium-bodied with a nose of apples and fresh nuts. Good acidity leads to a clean finish. This is an easy-sipping Pinot Grigio, meant for the back deck and conversation among friends.
Chile
We have just received in the first three Fair Trade wines introduced into Vermont. From a cooperative just outside the city of Cauquenes in the Maule Valley located between the Andes and the Pacific, the Melania wines are certified by FLO Cert GmbH in Germany with the Fair Trade status. FLO assures that growers are receiving fair prices for their products, defined as 50% more than the lowest standard pricing, and receiving secondary benefits such as loans to improve the surrounding community. Vina Lomas de Cauquenes (the agricultural cooperative producing the wine) received organic certification from IMO-Switzerland, which ensures that grapes are grown organically and that no chemicals are added in processing the grapes.
Melania, Coleccion Especial, Sauvignon Blanc, 2006 Maule Valley ($11.99) Organic and Fair-Trade
Straw and perhaps plantains on the nose, with flavors of citrus and minerals in the mouth. Light to medium-bodied with a clean finish.
Melania, Coleccion Especial, Chardonnay, 2006, Maule Valley ($11.99) Organic and Fair-Trade
A nose of pineapple and butterscotch is matched by both in the mouth. There is plenty of oak here to satisfy those who like a creamy, rich, buttery chardonnay.
Melania, Coleccion Especial, Merlot, 2005, Maule Valley ($11.99)
On the nose, ripe red berry fruits and a bit of cedar, owing to the 8 months of aging in 2 year old French barrels. On the palate there is plenty of fruit with nuances of oak.
France
Mallo Riesling Rosacker, Grand Cru, 2002 (Alsace) ($23.99)
Vineyards located in the heart of the Grand Cru Rosacker, adjacent to Clos Ste. Hune, the Mallo Rosacker Riesling presents a classic, grand cru Riesling at a village-level price. This thoroughbred wine offers floral and fruit aromas from aromatic peonies to apricot and honeydew; on the palate, the wine is medium-bodied with a trace of residual sugar, complemented by flavors of key lime and minerals. The balance between acid and fruit suggests that putting this wine away another few years will yield rewards for those with the patience to wait. It's also delicious now.
Domaine du Poujol, Proteus, 2004, France, ( $12.99)
50% Merlot, 30% Carignan, 10% Cinsault, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. I don't think I can improve on the description for this wine written by Kermit Lynch, the wine's importer. "Hank Williams wrote, '[t]he silence of a falling star lights up a purple sky.' . . . Here Poujol gives us a dazzling purplish night-colored red that stains the wineglass. Then you high dive into a spicy, brambly icing atop layers of berry and cherry. Or something along those lines. The palate is opulent, rounded, spicy like the nose, and has a chalky, stony finish."
Italy
Vercesi Del Castellazzo, Oltrepo Pavese Rosso "Pezzalunga", 2005, Italy ($15.99)
35% Barbara, 35% Bonarda (Croatina), 15% Uva Rara, 10% Pinot Nero, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon This wine is a bridge of sorts between late summer and fall, when tomatoes taste like they should and the air gets cool at night, with red wine season looming on the horizon. . . . From southwest Lombardy, Oltrepo Pavese Rosso often serves as the house wine in Milan's bistros. Vercesi del Castellazzo's Pezzalunga features aromas of mocha, dark chocolate, and ripe red berries; in the mouth,full-bodied, fairly acidic red with low tannins and flavors of mocha and baking spices. Should go very nicely with the tomatoes we all hope to be enjoying soon.
Moletto Prosecco Frizzante, NV ($12.99)
Selim, Vino Spumante Brut NV, Italy ($15.99)
I had to pick this wine, new to our repetoire. It has everything going for it: it is sparkling; it is made from two grapes whose aromas and flavors are seductive—aglianico and fiano; and, as importantly, it is named after jazz icon Miles Davis (Selim is Miles spelled in reverse). Also, it is delicious. From Campania, Selim's nose is different. After several sniffs, I wrote down "something floral, maybe violets, cinnamon, and Dentyne." A lively, refreshing mouthfeel, with some minerality coming through the fruit. Anyone who enjoys sparkling owes it to him or herself to try this one. For us, sparkling is always fun, so we appreciate good tasting sparklings in the $15ish range—it makes celebrations more frequent occurrences. We most often drink sparkling on its own, but it is regarded, along with rose, as one of the most food-friendly wines there is, so try this with whatever!
Bellenda, Col di Luna NV, "Rose di Valmonte" Pink Sparkling ($15.99)
85% Raboso, 15% Pinot Nero The Col di Luna Rose is a beautiful pale rose made Raboso, a grape indigenous to the Veneto (where Prosecco—and Pinot Grigio, reign) and Pinot Nero, also known as Pinot Noir. Prosecco is made using the charmat method, in which the wine undergoes secondary fermentation in the tank rather than the bottle; the process is quicker, thus preserving greater freshness. The Rose di Valmonte has apple blossom and wild strawberry aromas, medium body and crisp red apple and nectarine flavors.
New Zealand
Craggy Range, Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, 2006
Winemaker's notes: Pale straw with green hints. The aromas are of white peach, citrus and delicate tropical fruits. The mouth-filling palate is awash with flavors of fresh apple, nectarine, lime and tropical notes. The flavors are underlined by fine supporting acidity and a chalky texture that leads into a very long, rich and clean lime and passion fruit finish.
Portugal
Carm, Quinta do Coa, Reserva, 2004, Portugal ($15.99) Organic
Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz Quinta do Coa is located in the Douro, the region of Portugal most famous for Port. The Douro is considered by Portugese wine connoisseurs to be the best region in Portugal for dry red wines. Vineyards are planted in the seemingly inhospitable rocky hillsides, subjected to high daytime temperatures and very low rainfall, the kind of growing conditions that make the vines work hard to produce rich-tasting berries. The Carm vineyards (Casa Agricola Roboredo Madeira) have been in the same family since the middle of the 17th century and are farmed organically, having been certified by the European Commission. Touriga Nacional is the most important grape used in Port, contributing intense color, aromas and flavors, while Tinta Roriz is known as tempranillo in Spain. Touriga Franca contributes some floral notes, making this wine a tremendous value given the range of aromas and flavors. Under 50% of the wine is aged in French and American oak, with the rest aged in stainless steel for approximately 6 months before bottling. Characterized by rich fruit aromas of spicy blackberry and mulberry, with a hint of cedar on the nose. On the palate, flavors of spicy dark berries and a trace of mint on the elegant finish.
Dao Sul, Quinta dos Grilos, 2005 ($10.99)
Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro As noted above, the Touriga Nacional adds color, aromas and flavors while the alfrocheiro contributes spice and acidity. We had this wine and fell in love with it. My tasting notes say simply, "spiced cherries, chocolate, no tannins, delicious"— parsimonious, but all positive. Six months in French oak gives the wine additional body and some cedar aromas to complement the fruit and spice.
South Africa
Bon Cap Organic Winery, Syrah, 2004, Robertson, South Africa ($13.99)
Hand-picked, vinified using traditional methods, including open-top fementation. The wine is aged in a combination of French and American oak (70% French and 30% American) for 14 months. The result is an elegant syrah with aromas of black cherry and black currant, white pepper and just a touch of sweetness from the oak. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and round, with flavors of black cherries, blackcurrants, with a spicy finish. This is a very nice wine for the price.
Glen Carlou, Chardonnay, Paarl ($14.99)
If you like big California Chardonnays but don't like the price, you might want to try this South African alternative to see why it often makes Wine Spectator's Top 100 Value Wines issue year after year. Glen Carlou's style is to produce the big "butterbomb" chardonnay, so the wine goes through 100% malolactic fermentation with the result that the nose has some very rich fruits (pears, baked apples) and butterscotch while the mouthfeel is creamy with a decided buttery finish.
Spain
R. Goulart NV, Brut, Reserva, Cava ($16.99)
In addition to the usual suspects (macabeo, parellada and xarello in equal proportions), Goulart adds 10% chardonnay to give it some citrus and finesse. The Xerel-lo adds body and acidity, the macabeo is fruity and aromatic but also acidic, while the parellada is the most delicate of the three grapes. Cavas are made by the same process as French Champagnes, in which the secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle.
R. Goulart, NV, Brut Rose, Cava ($16.99)
Made from a blend of garnacha (Grenache) and monastrell (mourvedre), this pink cava from the cava region in Spain (Penedes) offers a much fruitier nose than one usually associates with cava. There are red berry aromas along with some of the spice of mourvedre. Most importantly, there are all those great bubbles in a couple of thin beads racing to the top of the glass. Less than 1% of all cava is rose.
Vinedos Y Bodegas Pablo, Menguante Garnacha, 2005, Carinena, ($9.99) Organic
Vinedos Y Bodegas Pablo is a family-owned estate founded in 1760, emphasizing the use of indigenous varietals and biodynamic farming. The 2005 Menguante Garnacha is produced from 80-year old vines and is unoaked. Robert Parker writes that it is " purple in color [. . . ] and exhibits a fragrant nose of kirsch and blueberry. Medium-bodied, this wine is packed with ripe fruit and layers of flavor all the way to the finish. This awesome value can be likened to a Cotes du Rhone on steroids." Though I wouldn't say it quite like that, if you like Grenache, you should definitely give this wine a try.
Vinedos Y Bodegas Pablo, Menguante Garnacha Seleccion, 2004, Carinena, ($14.99)
Also biodynamically-farmed, the Menguante Seleccion spends 8 months in a mixed of used French and American oak, giving it a bit more sophistication that its sibling. The oak adds some cedar, smoke and a touch of vanilla on the nose, in addition to the fruitiness that characterizes Grenache. 2004 was a fantastic vintage in Spain, and this offering has ripe tannins that should enable the wine to age and evolve over the next 10 years. For those just starting a cellar, this would be a safe inclusion.
United States
Cakebread, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley 2005 ($24.99)
Citrus, melon and passioni fruit notes with strong acidity to the apple and peach flavors. Finishes with a hint of spearmint.
Cycles Gladiator, Syrah, Central Coast, California ($8.99)
In contrast to so much California wine, the Cycles Gladiator is both tasty and affordable. We tried it twice just to make sure that we really thought that it was as good as we remembered. Aromas of ripe black cherries with baking spices lead into a bit of chocolate. In the mouth, the wine is full-bodied and lush, with flavors of spice, ripe red fruits and a lingering hint of chocolate on the finish.
Staglin Family Vineyard, Cabernet Estate, Rutherford, 2003 ($124.99)
Staglin's commitment to quality has made it one of the hottest Napa estates in recent years. In a Wine Spectator review, Staglin ranked 15th in scoring history over the past 15 years (behind such icons as Caymus Special Select and Napa Valley, Screaming Eagle, Harlan Estate, and Colgin to name a few). The WS describes the 2003 as exhibiting "rich, loamy currant and herbal scents and smooth, plush tannins." If you are already a Staglin fan, you won't be disappointed. The great winemakers made great wines in 2003.