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Siduri, Pinot Noir, Keefer Ranch, Sonoma, 2007, $19.99
At this price, you just have to try this. One upside to these economic times is that the more enlightened California premium wine producers have realized that they must reduce prices if they are going to sell any wine. The release price of this wine was $35, but the price has been reduced to allow us to offer it at just under $20; for that price, it is a deal. Soft with cherry cola aromas and some of that forest floor, like walking through the Redwoods in the early morning.

Mas Igneus Barranc dels Closos, Negre, Priorat, 2006, $20.99
This is a serious mouthfull of wine, consistent with the rich, extracted character of many wines from Priorat, a region in NE Spain, just below Barcelona. The wines of Priorat are amazingly rich and powerful and, like the Mas Igneus, Negre, often comprised of Grenache and Carignan. The Mas Igneus was reviewed in Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and given a score of 91. Here is the review: 
“Purple-colored, it offers up an expressive perfume of earth, slate, espresso, black cherry, blueberry, and licorice. This leads to a full-bodied wine with intense liquid mineral and black fruit flavors, outstanding depth, and enough ripe tannins to support an add’l 2-3 years of cellaring. It should be at its finest from 2011 to 2021.”

Here at Windham Wines we understand that the world of wine can often feel dauntingly complex. With so many regions, grapes, and viticultural styles its hard to keep track of whats going on in your glass. We are here to help! Have a question or concern about something you’ve purchased or tasted at Windham Wines? E-mail us at info@windhamwines.com.

Let’s get the ball rolling with a question we received recently from a customer who tasted and purchased a bottle of spanish red:

“We attended the wine tasting last month and really loved some of your wines, so we purchased several bottles, one of which was the Atalaya Almansa 2007…We had friends over tonight and were raving about this bottle, until we poured the last glass.  My future mother-in-law gagged on her last sip due to a hard woody substance in the glass.”

The experience that you had is not uncommon, particularly for Spanish wine. When we had the wine bar open and had a Spanish wine on the menu, glasses often came back with residue, sometimes much larger than what looks like was in your future mother-in-law’s glass. In the days before filtering wines, that was so common that decanting was de rigeur. Decanters were made to trap sediment, hence the Bordeaux decanter’s shape that makes it very difficult to pour the last ounces– you’re not meant to!.

There are two processes in winemaking that are meant to prevent the kind of stuff your future mother-in-law found in her glass: fining and filtering. Fining is meant to “clarify” the wine from the unstable proteins the molecules of which change charge over time and, in so doing, foster bonds among molecules and create larger particles. Most wines are fined and while fining removes the colloids (larger molecules formed during fining through the introduction of oppositely-charged sustances to attract the unstable proteins), it is likely to have tartrate crystals form after the wine is bottled and also be thrown when the wine is poured.  While the latter may look unpleasant, they are harmless to ingest and should not influence the flavor of the wine.

Filtering occurs later and is meant to capture larger particles in the wine, such as skins and stems that may have remained suspended in the wine. In the past 20 years, though, filtering has been the subject of considerable controversy with traditionalist arguing against filtering. In a nutshell, that argument runs something like this: historically we did not have the sophisticated filtering techniques available today and therefore much stuff was left in the wine. That stuff does influence flavors. If we think there are great wines made in 1947 and 1961 (two great Bordeaux years) and we weren’t able to filter as effectively as we can today, we can’t know the extent to which the larger particles left in the wine (and for which we need those decanters) contributed to the ethereal flavors those wines developed over time.  Many wines today are not filtered. In fact, Kermit Lynch, a widely respected wine importer, has long championed unfiltered wines and based his portfolio on them. I could not find out whether the Atalaya is unfiltered. It would not surprise me in the least if it is not.

Further reading:

http://houston-uncorked.com/2008/06/05/wine-sediment/

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January 23, 2010

4:00 - 6:30 pm

at The Wine Gallery

Join us for a global tour of winter ”comfort” wines from Europe, South America and the United States.  This will be a walk-around, guided tasting of 20 delightful wines. The event will feature sparkling, white and red wines with a heavy emphasis on “big reds”. Hors d’oeuvres will be provided by a local caterer.  Tickets are $30 per person.

Space for this event is very limited. All tickets must be purchased in advance before January 19th. Tickets can be purchased at Windham Wines or by calling 246-6400.  See you there!

Happy Holidays everyone! We’ve just added a series of posts describing the sparkling wines available at our shop. We’ve included many reviews by Burghound (Allen Meadows), The Wine Advocate (Robert Parker) and International Wine Cellar (Stephen Tanzer). We’ve organized our available bubbles by country beginning with France and, in particular, with Champagne (all the way at the bottom of this post series). Our collection is heavy on Grower-Champagnes, i.e., those producers who actually grow their own grapes and produce wine from them. One exception in Bollinger, who alone among the large houses owns 70% of the vineyards from which their grapes come.

Take it from the late Lily Bollinger’s reponse to the query of when she drank Champagne….

I drink it when I am happy and when I’m sad.
Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone.
When I have company, I consider it obligatory.
I trifle with it if I am not hungry and I drink it when I am.
Otherwise I never touch it, unless I’m thirsty.

California

Domaine Carneros, Brut Rosé $35.99

58% PN, 42% CH

Domaine Carneros is Taittinger’s California arm, so this is sparkling made in the méthode champenoise using the traditional pinot/chardonnay blend as well. When we want rosé Champagne but can’t afford it, this is our happy compromise. Wild strawberry, white peach and a little dried leaf shine through on this brut rosé.

Mumm, Napa $19.99

With vineyards in Carneros and one of the most relaxing tasting rooms in Napa, Mumm is a favorite among those who have visited California wine country and finished their day in Mumm’s beautiful tasting room or deck situated along the Silverado Trail with the Howell Mountain AVA as a backdrop. Mumm Napa produces a rich wine with aromas and flavors ranging from honey to fig.

Roederer Estate, Anderson Valley, Brut, $27.99

60% CH, 40% PN

Located in Mendocino County, Roederer was one of the first Champagne houses to establish itself in California. Unlike the others, Roederer bought land not in Napa or Carneros, but  further north in Mendocino’s Anderson Valley, an AVA with a cool climate allowing for a long, slow ripening of the berries. Roederer blends across vintages, uses the méthode champenoise, and ages the wine on its lees at least 24 months before releasing it. Roederer’s elegant, racy style foregoes malolactic fermentation. The result is a rich (lees time) but fresh (no malo) sparkler with flavors of hazelnut and quince in a medium-bodied wine with a refreshing finish.

New Mexico

Gruet, Brut $13.99

Wine from New Mexico? Started by a Champagne house and definitely a “maverick.” The sparkling wine displays green apple and lemon-grapefruit citrus flavors. It spends two years aging on its lees, so there is also some creaminess in the mouth.

France

Frederic Mallo, Cremant d’Alsace, “Special Delivery” $21.99 – organic

We have enjoyed this wine with friends so many times that it has come to represent that to us—friendship, and since that is something for which we are thankful during this holiday of appreciation, we include it as a great way to start your time together. It sets the tone with its beautiful thread of bubbles and its heady aromas of citrus, spice and minerals. A blend of Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Riesling, this wine will provide a festive start to your celebrations.

Domaine de Vaugondy, Vouvray, Sparkling, NV $17.99

100% Chenin Blanc

Rich aromas of nuts, quince, pineapple and honey are lifted in the mouth by the refreshing acidity and effervescence. We had this with Brie baked with marmalade and slivered almonds and it was delicious. I think we’ll do that again at New Year’s, along with some Manchego topped with some home-made Membrillo given to us by a dear friend (thank you!). I think this is going to pair beautifully, but in any case, it will start our celebration on a delicious note.

Italy

Prosecco

Adami, Garbel $13.99

Review from The Wine Advocate: This entry-level Non-Vintage Prosecco 13 Garbel is pretty and focused in its floral fruit. This delicious Prosecco shows plenty of energy and an easy-going style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2010. 88

Bisol, Jeio $12.99

Review from the Wine Advocate: Bisol’s NV Prosecco Jeio reveals notable freshness, vibrancy and crispness in its green apples, flowers and sweet spices. There is terrific energy and harmony here, but like most Proseccos, the wine is best enjoyed in its exuberant youth. 88

Zardetto, $12.99

Review from The Wine Advocate: Zardetto’s Non-Vintage Prosecco Brut is one of the most consistently delicious Proseccos on the market. It is also made in sufficient quanitites to ensure that it will be available in most, if not all, major markets. This exuberant, extroverted wine is full of flowers, pears and spices, and is sure to deliver much pleasure. 88

Other Italian

De Conciliis, Selim, Campania, Charmat Methode $19.99

65% Fiano, 35% Aglianico

This is the wine for jazz lovers. Bruno De Conciliis, owner and winemaker, loves that Bop/Cool/Hard Bop era and has named two of his wines to commemorate icons. This sparkling wine is named for Miles Davis, with Selim being an anagram of Miles. Like Miles, the Selim sparkling is an innovation. From an area that makes delicious still wines but very little sparkling, Bruno has taken two grapes indigenous to Campania and created a smooth and absolutely unique blend. Different from any sparkling I’ve ever had, there is a weightiness to this wine that should make it a red wine drinker’s sparkling. Perhaps that comes from the Aglianico, which is a very substantial red grape making wines that can age for 20+ years, so maybe it is the Fiano, itself a full-bodied white with bold flavors from acacia honey to pineapple. This wine is long on flavor and has plenty of energy to keep it from being ponderous.

Lamberti, Vino Spumante, Rosé $14.99

34% Pinot Blanc, 33% Pinot Noir, 33% Rabosco

This is an off-dry rosé for those who prefer their sparkling with a bit of sweetness. It reminded me of fruit cocktail, but in a very nice way. The sweetness also tones down the bubble activity, giving it a creamier cushion for those who find the frenetic activity of sparkling a bit disconcerting.

La Spinetta, Moscato d’Asti Bricco Quaglia (Frizzante) $17.99

This is another of those wines for those who don’t really enjoy sparkling but like a little sweetness. Moscato d’Asti is a sweet, low alcohol wine made in the frizzante (slightly fizzy) style. The La Spinetta, Bricco Quaglia, has aromas of incense, white peach, apricot and almonds on the nose and palate. The little spritz on the entry carries through to the finish to give it the fresh, clean end one expects from Moscato.

Austria

Michlits, Pinot Noir, Rosé, Frizzante, 2007 $18.99—biodynamic

We always have to recommend this wine because it is perfect for the meal. It has a rich nose of fresh red berry fruit and tangerine. In the mouth, it is round and so fresh, partly because of its biodynamic fruit, but certainly as well from the slight effervescence of the frizzante style. The sweet fruit flavors reach to the sweetness of the mashed or sweet potatoes, and the cranberries, but the frizzante freshness makes it work across the range at the table.

Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg, Brut Reserve, “Gobelsburg,” Kamptal $38.99

70% Gruner, 15% Pinot Noir, 15% Riesling (Disgorged February 2008)

Review by International Wine Cellar: Delicate bouquet of wild strawberry, acacia blossom, honey and sponge cake. Creamy and fine in the mouth, with refreshing acidity lifting and extending the crisp green apple and strawberry flavor. A lemony nuance emerges on the back end of this unique and attractive wine, which would make an ideal aperitif. 90

Steininger, Gruner Sekt, 2006, $28.99

For those you who like Gruner-Veltliner, Austria’s particular contribution to the wine world, you should thoroughly enjoy the Steininger’s ode to it in this lovely sparkling wine. Made in the traditional Méthode Champenoise way, that is about all this bottle shares with Champagne. Its nose and flavors range from pineapple to white pepper and Darjeeling-tea. It’s a delicious sparkling that shows best with food, particularly with something Asian like sushi or peanut noodles.

Steininger, Riesling Sekt, 2005 $31.99

This was a revelation when we visited Weingut Steininger in Langenlois, Austria, and had this ethereal bubbly. We’ve carried it since our return. Vinified dry, the wine shows compelling aromas of peaches, apricots and herbs and minerals. It is so light on the palate, so clean and fresh, yet is has a lingering finish of fresh herbs. Yummy.

Steininger, Zweigelt Sekt, 2007 $31.99

One of the more unusual sparklings anywhere, the Zweigelt Sekt is bright red, yes, red. Made from 100% Zweigelt, this is another of the red-drinker’s sparkling wines. Cherries and plum flavors dominate with a bit of spice and almonds on the finish.

Australia

Shingleback, “Black Bubbles,” Sparkling Shiraz, $23.99

Another red-drinker’s sparkling, made from Australia’s signature red grape—Shiraz. A big, deep ruby-colored wine with tons of fruit—lots of red and berry fruit on the nose and palate.

South Africa

Graham Beck, Sparkling Rosé, 2007 $18.99

70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay

This remains a staff favorite 3 years after we discovered it. When it comes to affordable celebrations, the sparkling rosé from Graham Beck is hard to beat. Made in the tradition of Champagne (secondary fermentation in the bottle), the wine also uses grapes traditional to Champagne—Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Yeasty warm bread dough, cranberry and strawberry fruit and, you are in good company selecting Graham Beck as your celebratory wine. Both Obama after his election, and Nelson Mandela upon his inauguration, toasted their respective victories with Graham Beck sparkling wines.

Spain

Poema, Extra Dry $11.99

Our “go-to” sparkling that has enabled us to enjoy a glass of bubbly with regularity, the Poema Cava is both affordable and tasty. Cava is generally so bone-dry that the fruit is masked behind the minerality and teeth-stripping acidity. We landed on the Extra Dry (a step up in sweetness) with the Poema Cava as a way of allowing the fruit to shine through and toning down the bracing acidity. We have enjoyed this wine countless times with friends, starting off our get-togethers with a toast to the gift of friendship. That’s what the Poema Cava conveys to us—friendship.

Poema, Brut, $11.99

For those who want the driest sparkling but something with some flavor, we offer the Poema Brut. We also use this wine for mimosas—a dry but good tasting base in which to add juice to sweeten and drink with brunch.

Roger Goulart, Rosé, 2006, $19.99

Garnacha and Monastrell

René Geoffroy, “Cuvée Volupte”, $79.99

20% PN, 80% CH

plenty of verve, and great aging potential. 2002, disgorged June, 2006

Bollinger, Special Cuvée, $64.99

60% PN, 15% PM, 25% CH Review from the Wine Advocate: “The Brut NV Special Cuvée opens with elegant, well-delineated aromas of honey, brioche, roasted nuts, orage zest, flowers an peaches, of which appear on the palate in a classy, finessed exression of the house style. This is an especially refined and delicious NV Champagne. 90/2009-2012.

Vilmart, Premier Cru-organic $68.99

30% PN, 70% CH Premier Cru, oak-fermentation and aged for 10 months in barriques. Avoids ML. Review from Allen Meadows, Burghound: The nose remains very restrained with aromas of green apple, freshly baked brioche and citrus [that dissolve] into intense, pure and driving flavors that possess a wonderfully broad panoply of flavors that are gorgeously persistent. This is one of those rare Champagnes that can really have excellent flavor authority yet deliver it by dancing across the palate. 92/2012+ Disgorged Oct. 2007

H. Billiot, Grand Cru: $58.99

70% PN, 30% CH no ML Review from Allen Meadows, Burghound: Disgorged September 2008 A wonderfully expressive and extremely pretty nose that offers a near perfect blend of vinous character with classic Champagne characteristics of lemon, floral and brioche with discreet hints of green apple that can also be found on the delicious and moderately effervescent flavors blessed with impressive complexity and I very much like the mouth feel as it’s round and almost creamy yet does not lose definition or become soft. The finish is agreeably dry but not aggressively so and the length is quite sneaky. Any impressive non-vintage brut. 92/ now + -

J. Lassalle, Brut, Imperial Preference, NV

From a trio of women winemakers: Chantel and daughter Angeline, with help from Chantel’s mother, Olga,Hand-pressed, hand-riddled, all aged at least 5 years, remarkable complexity and depth

KL writes: “From the lovely village of Chigny-les-Roses (yes, lots of rose there), Champagne J. Lassalle’s current releases are very impressive. Their non-vintage Imperial Preference is a mature beauty, expressive, generous, stylish, and the palate is remarkably elegant. This is the Champagne served at Domaine Tempier whenever one of the kids, grandkids, or great-grandkids gets married. If you are used to the big Champagne houses, the extra pleasures offered by this cuvee will shock you. It is a caress going down!

Chigny-Les-Roses (also from Inspiring Thirst newsletter)
20% Chardonnay, 60% Pinot Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir
As with the rosé, this cuvée also rests on its lees for five years (FYI, the legal requirement is fifteen months) but the effect on the wine is different. The Préférence is rich and doughy with notes of apple tart, biscuit and burnt pear. One of the only Champagne houses where the wines undergo full malolactic fermentation. Think baby Krug.

Bruno Paillard, Premier Cuvée: : $49.99

45% PN, 22% PM, 33% CH, ML, low dosage. Elegant, slightly yeasty, spiced apple

Disgorged Oct. 2008

Marc Hebrart, Premier Cru, $47.99 disgorged Jan. 2008

Review by Allen Meadows, Burghound: “A really pretty nose of freshly baked brioche, rose petal and lemon rind complements perfectly the foamy and utterly delicious flavors that possess a mildly toasty and yeasty finish that is notably complex and possesses sneaky length. This is gulpable without being simple or banal. Ready now for my taste, though it will hold. 91/+ -

Veuve Cliquot: no review given $49.99

Stephane Coquillette: $44.99, disgorged Oct 2007

67% Pinot Noir, 33% Chardonnay. Review by Allen Meadows, Burghound: “This is so much more discreet than either of its two stable mates, with a discreet to the point of reticent nose that only aggressive swirling finally coaxes notes of brioche, lemon rind and rose petal with the barest hint of smoke that is also reflected by the moderately effervescent and very lemony flavors that are extremely clean and refreshing, yet not antiseptic as there is a fine finishing.” 90/now + -

watercress, strawberry, lime curd on the nose. On the palate, tarter, with lime and apple, yet with a delicate citrus curd and light touch of juniper/resiny honey. There is an almost creamy subtly to this wine that makes it a bit more cerebral, but still delicious. There is a lot going on for the price. (moi)

Duval-Leroy, Brut NV $32.99

Review from International Wine Cellar: Duval-Leroy’s NV Brut is a pleasant Champagne with good definition, clean minerality and an up-front, approachable personality that makes it an excellent choice for near-term drinking. Within the context of Champagne, it is an excellent value. Disgorged Dec. 2008. 88/2009-2013.

Bonnaire, Grand Cru: 100% Chardonnay from Cramant $49.99

Guy Larmandier, Cramant, Grand Cru: 100% Chardonnay, ML $50.99

Review from the Wine Advocate: The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Cramant offers up an array of exotic aromas and flavors in a full-bodied, intense style. Notes of mint, ash, flowers, licorice, graphite and apricots emerge from this decidedly masculine, brooding wine. Sweet, long and powerful, the wine shows outstanding persistence on the palate nad the pure breed of a first-class wine. 92/2009-2012. Disgorged July, 2008.

Sparkling Rosé

Bruno Paillard, Premiere Cuvée:  $77.99

85% PN, 15% CH Premier Cru ML- Estate vineyards farmed organically and sustainably. Review from the Wine Advocate: The NV Brut Rosé Premiere Cuvée is a soft, accessible offering with expressive aromatics and a layered expression of fruit. With time in the glass, the wine’s inner perfume emerges quite nicely. As always, the Paillard house style is on full display in this understated, supremely elegant Champagne. The finish is long and refined. Disgorged April 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. (moi-yellow peach, honeydew, tangerine)

Bollinger: Rosé $64.99

62% PN, 14% PM, 24% CH Aromas of strawberries, raspberry, and red currant along with some toastiness. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation (unlike the Bollinger non-rosés) to soften the acidity, but there is still an energy to this wine that suggests going aging potential.

Aubry: $58.99 Disgorged June 2008, Premier Cru

25%PN, 15% PM, 60% CH Undergoes Malolactic fermentation, lower dosage; From Wine Advocate: The NV Rosé Premier Cru shows gorgeous linearity and precision in a taut expression of fruit. Subtle notes of cherries, red berries and flowers emerge as the wine shows off lovely inner sweetness and perfume. 92/2009-2012

Bonnaire, Premier Cru: $49.99

10% PN, 90% CH-ML, fresh strawberry fruit accompanied by freshly-baked bread aromas and caramel notes. We were charmed by this wine.

Moet and Chandon, Dom Perignon, 2000  $165.99
49% Pinot Noir (PN), 51% Chardonnay (CH) Review from the Wine Advocate: “The 2000 Dom Perignon is a gorgeous, seductive wine that floats on the palate with remarkable grace. Toasty aromas meld into freshly cut flowers, apricots and pears, with sweet notes of mint and licorice that linger on the long finish. This perfumed, inviting Dom Perignon is elegance personified, and in this vintage the wine fully merits its lofty reputation. 94/2009-2019.

Bollinger, Le Grand Année, 1999 $104.99
63% PN, 37% CH
Review from the Wine Advocate: “The 1999 La Grande Année is a refined, elegant wine with pretty, exotic notes of apricots, peaches, honey, flowers, smoke and tasted oak. There is a notable clarity and precision, in a style that is generous and approachable. The 1999 La Grande Année is 63% Pinot Noir and 37% Chardonnay, of which 82% came from grand cru vineyards while 18% came from premier cru sits spanning a total of 16 villages. The wine was aged in oak and dosage was 7-9 grams. (Disgorged in July, 2007)

Gimonnet, 1999 (Special Club)$84.99
100% Chardonnay
Review from Allen Medows, Burghound-”An extremely pretty nose that is justnow beginning to display some obvious development to the brioche and baked apple nose that complements the rich, delicious and solidly complex flavors that culminate in a moderately dry and tangy finish that delivers fine length. This is a really lovely effort and could be enjoyed now, though I would be included ot wait for another 2 to 3 years. 92/2012+  (Disgorged December 2007)

Paul Bara, 2000, Grand Cru, (Bouzy): $79.99
80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. Review from the Wine Advocate: Bara’s 2000 Brut Grand Cru is a generous full-bodied wine bursting with the essence of honey, apricots, acacia blossoms and minerals. Expansive and broad on the palate, the wine offers outstanding length and plenty of style. 92/2008-2015.

Review from International Wine Cellar: Strongly scented bouquet of candied lemon, redcurrant, toasty lees and dried rose. Broad but penetrating citrus and red berry flavors are underscored by smoke and minerals. Becomes richer on the finish, which leaves lush orchard fruit and floral notes behind. 91

Rene Geoffroy, Cuvée Volupte, 2002, $79.99
20% PN, 80% CH
2002 is a superb vintage, widely regarded as the best since 1996. What we don’t sell this holiday season retires to our cellar to be on call for our various celebrations. I couldn’t find a review for this vintage, so will just share my tasting notes. The Geoffroy’s estate is in Cumieres, a premier cru site known for Pinots, though they own additional lots in Hautvillers, Damery and Fleury-la-Riviere. The wines don’t undergo malolactic fermentation so that their acidity remains pronounced, consequently encouraging  greater aging potential. The 2002 has captivating aromas of orange peel, quince paste and honey.  It is impressively complex, with some seductive baked apple and nuttiness. On the palate, it is creamy and energetic; it’s a great mouthfeel, rich and clean at the same time. Flavors include pear and quince again. I found myself thinking of orange creamsicles if only they were pear instead– a subdued pear flavored tempered by cream.  (Disgorged June 2006)